Else Skjold, Lektor på Det Kongelige Akademi kommenterer på EU-strategien for bæredygtige og cirkulære tekstiler
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1. april 2022
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“The long awaited EU Textiles strategy has now landed and is being eagerly discussed. To me there are several very positive elements such as a push for services and business models for prolonging the lifespan of clothes through i.e. reducing tax on repair. There is focus on due diligence in the supply chain. There is a ban on destroying unsold stock. There is to be made barriers for exporting textile waste. First and foremost there is a very high focus on changing the mindset of both industry and citizens (who I refuse to reduce to consumers only) away from fast fashion and disposable products which to my mind is most urgent. And lastly I am of course relieved that there is finally a realisation that research and new knowledge is needed to create this transition
I share the concern mentioned by Michiel Schefferingun klepp and Tone Skårdal Tobiasson that there is very little focus on bio-based materials and reshoring of material processes and know-how even if it is mentioned briefly. I am like them overly concerned with the current obsession with recycled textiles as a solution fix even if we know that climate-positive recycling is very complicated. And furthermore, that it is plain stupid to destroy something that could have been used for a longer time.
As a researcher working with design however, I am upset about the way in which design for circularity/sustainability is only referred to at a materials level even if we know how many other parameters are relevant to make textile products people really care about. Just to mention a few, could be issues such as sizing, fit, aesthetic and cultural references, diversity, user-inclusive approaches, wide seams or other for adjustability, multi-purpose design and much more. All which requires a more faceted understanding of what fashion is to who, and more time, skillls and know-how for the product development phase. Only through this can we make clothing that is truly circular because it is worth being circulated by someone for a very long time 💚”
Ovenstående er skrevet af: Else Skjold, Lektor, Det Kongelige Akademi. Originalt delt på Linkedin d. 31. marts 2022.
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