Else Skjold, Lektor på Det Kongelige Akademi kommenterer på EU-strategien for bæredygtige og cirkulære tekstiler

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1. april 2022

Nedenstående kommentar er delt med forfatterens samtykke.

Bemærk; at kommentarer fra personer udenfor sekretariatet delt på Design denmarks hjemmeside ikke repræsenterer foreningens holdning, men skal ses som en måde at give designbranchen en stemme.

“The long awaited EU Textiles strategy has now landed and is being eagerly discussed. To me there are several very positive elements such as a push for services and business models for prolonging the lifespan of clothes through i.e. reducing tax on repair. There is focus on due diligence in the supply chain. There is a ban on destroying unsold stock. There is to be made barriers for exporting textile waste. First and foremost there is a very high focus on changing the mindset of both industry and citizens (who I refuse to reduce to consumers only) away from fast fashion and disposable products which to my mind is most urgent. And lastly I am of course relieved that there is finally a realisation that research and new knowledge is needed to create this transition

I share the concern mentioned by Michiel Schefferingun klepp and Tone Skårdal Tobiasson that there is very little focus on bio-based materials and reshoring of material processes and know-how even if it is mentioned briefly. I am like them overly concerned with the current obsession with recycled textiles as a solution fix even if we know that climate-positive recycling is very complicated. And furthermore, that it is plain stupid to destroy something that could have been used for a longer time.

As a researcher working with design however, I am upset about the way in which design for circularity/sustainability is only referred to at a materials level even if we know how many other parameters are relevant to make textile products people really care about. Just to mention a few, could be issues such as sizing, fit, aesthetic and cultural references, diversity, user-inclusive approaches, wide seams or other for adjustability, multi-purpose design and much more. All which requires a more faceted understanding of what fashion is to who, and more time, skillls and know-how for the product development phase. Only through this can we make clothing that is truly circular because it is worth being circulated by someone for a very long time 💚”

Ovenstående er skrevet af: Else Skjold, Lektor, Det Kongelige Akademi. Originalt delt på Linkedin d. 31. marts 2022.

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